DAY 49 (4/6): Although we were moving on from Arkaroola today we enjoyed a slow, somewhat lazy start. No need to hurry since our destination, Weetootla Gorge in Vulkathunha - Gammon Ranges NP, is only about 35 km away. We had taken the camper off the truck so we could drive around Arkaroola so we had to put that back on and pack up a bit more than usual since our stay here had been longer than usual. Also, a little bit of rain last night meant that the camper was damp so the extra time meant it could dry out.
We rewarded our packing up efforts with a cup of coffee at the reception area of Arakaroola. While there, we overheard a phone call by a man whose car was in need of recovery. 35 km out of Arkaroola Village he had broken the suspension and one wheel was now where it shouldn't be. The nearest recovery vehicle is 150 km away. Glad it wasn't us - that would be one way to completely ruin a trip!
By the time we reached Weetootla Gorge campground it was lunchtime but that was good since it left the whole afternoon for exploring.
Weetootla Gorge was so green and actually had water flowing through it - in places you could even hear babbling water! There were plenty of bird calls around our camp so I suspected that water must be lying around close by, but I did not expect as much. There had been a tiny little bit of rain at Arkaroola last night and a little more is expected either tonight or tomorrow. There must have been more here, I think.
We only walked about 3 km up the gorge but I spent hours wandering back down. After accompanying me for the first half, Pete returned rather more quickly so that he could prepare receptacles for approaching rain.
My first photo in the gorge was of 'my' Willie Wagtail. This is one incredible bird. There has not been one day, not one, where I haven't seen a Willie Wagtail. They seem to survive, indeed flourish, in such a wide range of habitats.
A range of honeyeaters, including the Spiny-cheeked Honeyeater, were enjoying the vast amounts of mistletoe on the many wattle trees around.
The Curly Mallee (Eucalyptus gillii) was in coming into bloom. Such a beautiful blossom and an incredible tree form.
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| The grey tree is the Curly Mallee |
Also, I found a Pimelea I don't recall seeing before. It is the Pimelea microcephala.
Unfortunately, I found a number of examples of invasive species including Tree Tobacco. Nowhere, it seems, is weed free.
More rain had been forecast but it did not look imminent. We hoped it would hold off. Unfortunately, it didn't. I had put up my moth lights and one of the gloves blew when the cold rain touched the warm globe. Not surprising but annoying since I was just about to move it under cover. Nevertheless, I managed to attract a few moths under cover with just the one light.
DAY 50 (5/6): We had quite a bit of heavy rain last night - hard to gauge how much since rain always sounds heavy on canvas. This meant we were a little worried about the roads ahead. We planned to travel to Yunta, then use a variety of back roads to travel across to Lake Mungo NP. So on the road we went, only to find a million puddles. Not looking good. Nevertheless we continued southwards 25 km on the Yunta road until we found a creek, 1/2 metre deep and flowing. We could have crossed this but with 200 km to go and an unknown number of creeks to be traversed we decided it was not worth it. Later we found that the road was closed anyway.
Instead, we retraced our steps and drove to Wilpena instead. We had no way of knowing what roads were closed or open since there is no reception out there and we had camped where there was no reception. We passed one perhaps inhabited dwelling on the way. Anyway we made it safely to Wilpena despite the car looking rather muddy with any number of small water crossings. We passed a few cowboys on the road, travelling way too fast. Just as well they didn't crack our windscreen with the many little pebbles they threw up.
At least the views on this road were far better than those on the Yunta road, which made the Hay Plain look positively interesting.
The Yunta road
The road to Wilpena
From here on, we saw many motorbikes - the offroad kind - and realised that the Finke Desert Race must be coming up. Poor them. There are so many roads closed, they will have to take the highway north to Alice Springs. The Oodnadatta Track is closed to all but 4WD and heavy vehicles.
But for us, its onwards to Peterborough, SA, to review our options. There, we knew there would be internet and we would be able to see exactly what is and isn't open. We had travelled through Peterborough last year and knew it was an interesting town with a free camp nearby.
We stopped briefly in Orroroo to see if we could find the Giant Gum Tree we'd seen a sign to on our way in. We found it - a truly remarkable River Red Gum, estimated to be at least 500 years old. There were a number of other beauties nearby but this one is truly special and looks so healthy.
Me hugging the Giant Gum Tree
While I was busy admiring the other huge trees, Pete was feeding the willy wagtail he has apparently been keeping in with the chooks.
Orroroo looks like a thriving town even if one from another era. The streets are wide, the houses mostly old stone ones and the main street is typical of so many rural SA towns. This shop definitely belongs to another time.
Once in Peterborough, we looked at our options. Our plans are once again in disarray. Lake Mungo NP is closed. Our alternate route home, via Ivanhoe and Hillston is also closed, well at least a crucial part of it is. Next alternative, Mutawintji NP, near Broken Hill is also closed. This rain has been widespread it seems and there is more on the way apparently. Eek!
We have decided to head to Broken Hill tomorrow and review what to do from there.
DAY 51 (6/6): We took our time looking at Peterborough this morning. We wandered up and down the main street trying to get warm in the sun, then had an early morning tea in a cafe that is housed in the old Centenary Picture Theatre. There is a great collection of old memorabilia in there so we had plenty to look at while waiting for our coffees.
We looked in at the Burg Museum attached to the newsagent which was okay, but nothing special except I guess if you are interested in model railways in which case a model Peterborough railway of the early 1960s was displayed there.
A drive around the north side of town (the side we didn't explore last year) showed that the lovely stone cottages and buildings are found there too. Peterborough's old buildings are preserved in such quantity. It really should be a heritage listed town - there are few like it.
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| You don't see many buildings commemorating Queen Victoria |
We filled up with diesel in Peterborough and bought some more gas. As we were at the servo, I noticed this sign. Anyone any idea what Bay Food is? Who needs any other place to eat. They obviously have it all here - but not a single person in the dining room ...
Heading onwards towards Broken Hill we looked at the signs at Yunta for the road to Arkaroola and it was open to 4WD over 3 tonnes and heavy vehicles today. Oh well. Who knows if we would have got through. We stopped for lunch at a tiny hamlet called Cockburn, right on the border of SA and NSW. Not much there but a pub and a handful of houses. I'm not sure why anyone would want to live there. I can't see the attraction.
On a completely different note, recently I have been researching the life of one of Pete's great-grandfathers who lived for many years in Broken Hill, estranged from his family. I had found out where he was buried so after reaching Broken Hill, we visited the Broken Hill Cemetery (on the outskirts of town coming in from SA) and a helpful council worker helped us find his grave. A sad and sorry sight. There is no gravestone and the graveyard around is very much less than well-tended. I guess there was no family at his burial to place a headstone and the handful of well-wishers at his funeral may not have been able to be, or may not have wanted to be a substitute for family. A bit sad really. He left his family and had nothing to do with them, but he did care about people and did try to help others in his separate life. His grave is the unmarked one in the middle.
Broken Hill is busy today. Maybe all the closed roads around has meant that all the nomads in this part of the world have headed here. We had two attempts at booking into camping spots before finding the last unpowered site in a third. There are many bikers camped here too.
The Yunta road 
The road to Wilpena
Me hugging the Giant Gum Tree 
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